TREE PRUNING
The earliest pruning of a tree starts when the tree is a sapling and can continue until maturity. The first few years of a tree's life is the best time to prune to achieve the desired shape when it reaches maturity. A good strong "leader" and a sound branch system is what we need to help it to create, providing a good, balanced appearance.
During the tree’s progression through life, pruning is still necessary, with removal or shortening of larger and heavier branches. Crown Lifting and Crown Reductions at this stage are normally carried out.
Certain tree species are prone to "bleeding", which while not always harmful, can be unsightly. Birch, Hornbeam, Laburnum, Lime, Magnolia, Maple, Mulberry, Poplar, Sophora and Walnut are the most affected, but the affect can be minimised by pruning at specific times of the year – Spring is definitely a time to avoid!
We would generally follow the guidelines on the timing of pruning as recommended by the Royal Horticultural Society.
TREE REMOVAL / DISMANTLING
Complete tree removal is sometimes required. On these occasions it is very much a last resort. Due to the condition of a tree, sometimes the likelihood of danger to persons or property is too high so it must be done.
There are other reasons. Infection avoidance and conservation, i.e. if a tree is suffering from a transmittable disease then complete removal would be for the benefit of other trees in the vicinity. A tree could also be in the way of a development and is the subject of a Planning Application or has simply outgrown its surroundings. It is better to act before a tree simply gets too big and becomes a problem. A simple reduction would enable the tree to be kept, but unfortunately this is often overlooked.
Carrying out a "straight fell" on a tree in most domestic locations is rare. The proximity of buildings / fences / etc. generally demands a “sectional felling" or "dismantling" operation instead. Sectional felling involves a trained tree surgeon climbing the tree with the use of ropes and a harness, or accessing the tree using a mobile elevated work platform (cherry picker). Then the "cut and throw" method to get branches to the ground, or for larger limbs, lowering lines and pulleys would be used. Controlled descent of the tree limbs is ensured and is the method used whenever there is potential for damage
DEAD WOODING
During the natural growing process, a tree sometimes "gives up" on the odd limb for no apparent reason. There’s usually an underlying cause that’s not readily apparent. Sometimes it’s because a limb becomes damaged through storms or by contact with vehicles etc. The Limb can become diseased and begin the process of die-back. Badly pruned stumps may also become deadwood and crossing branches that rub in the wind are often the primary cause of subsequent disease in a branch.
Not all dead wood is bad: It provides a habitat for Saproxylic organisms (bugs and beasties” that feed on dead or dying wood) which become the meal of choice for birds such as Woodpeckers and other creatures. Striking a balance is necessary when “dead wooding” , so……if it is safe we really should leave some deadwood in a tree for bio diversity. A thick long branch that has deadwood at its end is less likely to cause a tree poor health, unlike a short stub near to the trunk which could allow disease into the trunk through the inability for the tree to complete its natural healing process.
When “dead wooding”, we would normally inspect the crown of the tree and carry out a systematic check for different types of deadwood and assess whether it is unsafe and then remove / cut out crossing branches and trim stumps back to the branch collar to permit the callusing over of the wound, and if reasonable to do so, leave some dead wood for the insects that birds will then feed on.
Dead wooding is normally done at the same time as Crown Cleaning.
CROWN CLEANING / THINNING / LIFTING / REDUCTION
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POLLARDING / COPPICING
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STUMP GRINDING
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